Technology allows Bower Roebuck to produce short runs of each fabric
The technology allows Bower Roebuck to only produce short runs of each fabric; rarely more than 2000 meters
Individual messages can be woven into the pinstripe
Individual messages can be woven into the pinstripe of Bower Roebuck’s cloth
Cloth ready for shipping
Lengths of finished cloth awaiting shipping to customers
Skilled operators set up the warping machine
Skilled operators set up the warping machine and keep its complex operations running fluidly
Scabal Chairman J.P. Thissen (left) and his CEO son Gregor
Scabal Chairman J.P. Thissen (left) and his CEO son Gregor
Scabal’s sample library is a treasure trove of designs.
Scabal’s sample library
Scabal Group CEO Gregor Thissen
Scabal Group CEO Gregor Thissen
England , home of excellence.
When it comes to gentleman’s suiting, England is still the home of excellence.
Quality control is built into every phase of the cloth production
Quality control is built into every phase of the cloth production, and undertaken by experienced weavers.
Family-owned W.T.Johnson & Sons in Huddersfield
Family-owned W.T.Johnson & Sons in Huddersfield is where the grey state cloth is finished by washing in pure, Pennine water
Machinery used in the crucial finishing process dates back from the Victorian era
Some of the machnery used in the crucial finishing process dates back from the Victorian era
Exclusive, high quality threads.
Bower Roebuck works with yarn manafacturers around the world to source its exclusive, high quality threads.
Scabal’s sample library is a treasure trove of designs.
Scabal’s sample library is a treasure trove of designs
The massive driers at W.T. Johnsons
The massive driers at W.T. Johnsons will shrink grey state material from 190 to 170 cms.
Top-of-the-range Benninger warping machines.
Following a flood in 2002, Bower Roebuck was able to re-equip with top-of-the-range Benninger warping machines.
Washing in pure animal fat soap
Washing in pure animal fat soap and the softest water drawn, from the finisher’s own borehole, removes oils and waxes deposited during weaving.
English suit remains the global standard for high end menswear
Despite fashion trends, the English suit remains the global standard for high end menswear
Vicuna their wool is the finest and most expensive in the world
Vicuna their wool is the finest and most expensive in the world
Scabal Group CEO Gregor Thissen
Scabal Group CEO Gregor Thissen
Michael Day, head of the design department at Scabal for 30 years
500-800 new designs per season pass through the hands of Michael Day, head of the design department at Scabal for 30 years
Cloth makers been in the village of New Mill since the 15th century, drawn by the purity of the water.
There have been cloth makers in the village of New Mill since the 15th century, drawn by the purity of the water.
The whir of the looms
The whir of the looms at Bower Roebuck’s Gendale Mill is almost hypnotic
Human factor is still a major part of Bower Roebuck’s success
No matter how sophisticated the technology, the human factor is still a major part of Bower Roebuck’s success
High capacity healding machines
Having the highest capacity healding machines at their disposal gives Bower Roebuck a design edge
Hand work in Scabal’s garments continues.
Even after the cloth has bee made the hand work in Scabal’s garments continues
280 different vertical threads.
The warping machine can hold more than 280 different vertical threads.
Skilled menders visually expect each meter of fabric
Highly skilled menders visually expect each meter of fabric for flaws, and can remove and replace a single thread by hand
Cutting edge of gentleman’s suiting,
Since Scabal took it over in the 1970s, Bower Roebuick has striven to remain at the cutting edge of gentleman’s suiting, technically and in design.
Suiting the stars
In its historic mill, fitted out with the most advanced technology and staffed by weavers with generations of experience, Bower Roebuck Ltd makes the finest, most exquisite men’s suiting fabric. Its parent company Scabal supplies the world’s most prestigious tailors and textile businesses. we went to see what makes a champion piece of cloth.
Text . Jules Marshall